It is one of the most significant roles that remains unrequested. Although not elected, it is deeply intertwined with the political landscape; consistently present on the global stage, yet seldom the individual speaking publicly. Despite its allure, the position of the First Lady of the United States entails an uninvited obligation, often accompanied by considerable public examination, including scrutiny over their attire.
For previous First Ladies, fashion has served as a vital means of communication, reflecting their personal values and beliefs. Michelle Obama, who had the power to elevate a designer's career with a single image, utilized clothing as a medium to advocate for and promote diversity within the fashion industry. Throughout former President Barack Obama’s administration, she consistently showcased emerging designers such as Jason Wu, Fe Noel, Jonathan Simkhai, and Pyer Moss, in addition to Isabel Toledo, whose prominence surged after designing Obama’s inauguration dress in 2009. In contrast, Dr. Jill Biden has opted for more established brands over the past four years, including Oscar de la Renta, Tom Ford, and Ralph Lauren. However, her outfits have occasionally featured symbolic elements, such as the custom Gabriela Hearst gown she wore during her husband’s inauguration concert in 2021, which was adorned with embroidered federal flowers representing each state and territory of the United States.
Numerous first ladies have emphasized the importance of wearing American-made attire; however, Melania Trump seemed to gravitate towards European luxury brands such as Valentino, Versace, and Chanel. For her official portrait as first lady, she donned a black tuxedo jacket from Dolce & Gabbana. This was particularly striking given her husband's prevailing message of "Buy American, Hire American," as she was seldom seen in American-made fashion after her sky-blue Ralph Lauren outfit for the inauguration. This choice raised eyebrows and was perceived by some as disrespectful. New York designer Nina McLemore, whose creations have been worn by figures like Hillary Clinton and Senator Elizabeth Warren, remarked, “If you are associated with an elected official representing American workers, you should prioritize that in your purchasing decisions. Regardless of her personal preferences, she has a duty to represent the constituency that elected her husband.”
The extent of Melania's autonomy in her fashion choices remains a topic of discussion. Dressing the first lady is a significant milestone that many American brands aspire to achieve. However, the former president's polarizing political stance led to a fashion industry that was often hesitant to embrace his wife. Independent designer Sophie Theallet, known for her work with Michelle Obama, publicly declared in 2016 her refusal to "dress or associate in any way with the next first lady." Marc Jacobs expressed to WWD his lack of interest in collaborating with Trump, while Christian Siriano stated that, as a gay man, he could not "support a campaign where I might not have the same rights." Consequently, Melania frequently opted for off-the-rack items from Net-a-Porter, which she purchased independently, as noted by Kate Bennett, CNN’s former White House correspondent and author of the 2019 biography “Free, Melania.”
Bennett stated during a phone conversation, "Melania was following in the footsteps of Michelle Obama, who truly regarded fashion as a form of art. However, she did not possess the strength to embody what the industry sought to represent, which, to be candid, did not align with her husband's policies."
What has changed?
Eight years later, what is the current position of the fashion industry regarding her? This inquiry is met with a notable lack of response. Several prominent American designers, including Tom Ford, Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors, and Hearst, who have previously dressed at least one first lady, did not respond to CNN’s request for their willingness to collaborate with Trump. Ralph Lauren, who was recently awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom by the Biden administration and created her inaugural coat in 2017, also chose not to comment. In contrast, a representative from Oscar de la Renta’s brand, known for dressing every presidential spouse since Jackie Kennedy, stated via email that the brand is “always honored when asked to dress the first lady of the United States,” emphasizing its commitment to ensuring she looks and feels her best, irrespective of political affiliations. While smaller, emerging designers may express greater enthusiasm for dressing the new first lady, Bennett suggests that this may not hold significant appeal for Trump.
The incoming first lady has the freedom to choose her attire from any designer, irrespective of their involvement in the creation, styling, or sourcing of her outfits. Whether or not she collaborates with American designers, it is evident that she aims to present herself in the best possible light. Rachel Tashjian, a fashion writer for the Washington Post, remarked last April that the incoming first lady "dresses more like a woman who enjoys a good afternoon at Neiman Marcus."
Bennett noted, “She is motivated by the aesthetic appeal of clothing,” adding that it is unlikely Trump will enhance the soft-power messaging during her husband's second term. “She focuses on her preferences, what she finds appealing, and her personal taste… Conversations with individuals in Washington reveal a sense of excitement about the resurgence of fashion. Regardless of opinions on Donald Trump, there is anticipation for Melania Trump’s outfits.”
Even if American fashion brands were to express interest in dressing the first lady, Bennett opines that it may be too late for such efforts. “I believe everything has become politicized, including fashion. Whether this should be the case is not for me to determine, but Melania Trump has certainly felt the impact of this dynamic,” Bennett stated. “She possesses a strong memory and will recall those who supported her as well as those who did not.”
Designer McLemore, who expressed a willingness to dress Trump if given the chance, suggested that the first lady should contemplate the implications of her clothing choices this time. “There exists a delicate balance between dressing in a manner that reflects your identity and recognizing that you are, in essence, performing and wearing a costume,” McLemore remarked.
Nichola D. Gutgold, a professor and member-at-large of the First Ladies Association for Research and Education (FLARE), which is a university-based initiative focused on analyzing the influence and legacies of first ladies, anticipates that we may observe her presence less frequently. In November, CNN reported that Trump, who has been noticeably absent from the campaign trail, is unlikely to reside in the White House on a full-time basis. “She is very aloof,” Gutgold remarked during a Zoom discussion. “I believe that events will be selectively chosen, and her schedule will be considerably lighter. Additionally, she may not require as extensive a wardrobe as a highly active first lady.”
A Triple Standard:
It is widely acknowledged that the First Lady encounters a distinct form of double standard: her appearance is scrutinized in great detail, while her husband's often unremarkable attire is generally accepted without question. "I suspect that when we eventually elect a female president of the United States, the first gentleman will not face excessive scrutiny regarding his choice of suit," remarked Gutgold.
Historically, First Ladies have faced the challenge of satisfying diverse opinions regarding their fashion selections, regardless of the era or political affiliation. "I recall Nancy Reagan facing criticism for her expensive wardrobe," noted Gutgold. Similarly, Rosalynn Carter sparked controversy among designers when she opted to re-wear a dress at her husband Jimmy Carter's inauguration in 1977. "She chose to wear the same dress from her husband's gubernatorial inauguration because of her fondness for it and her natural thriftiness. However, this decision caused quite a stir among American designers," Gutgold explained.
Even Jackie Kennedy, who was lauded for her impeccable and timeless fashion sense, occasionally deviated from the unspoken expectation of donning American-made clothing. "She understood the importance of fashion diplomacy," Gutgold stated, "and while she often selected American designers, there were exceptions. On the day of her husband's assassination, as we all sadly remember, she was wearing a pink Chanel suit."
In the case of Melania Trump, the double standard is further exacerbated. "She is beautiful and dresses in a high-fashion manner," McLemore observed. "As a result, her clothing choices will inevitably attract commentary, regardless of the context."
Eggs have been recalled across several provinces due to concerns regarding salmonella contamination.
“This is one of the reasons why this aspect is so important, as it will be a global event. The visual dimension of our society is paramount.”
